Labor Day Weekend is behind us and with that all our white shirts and dresses. We are switching gears and hunkering down for the fall and the beginning of school. A three day weekend (3.5 day in my case) was the perfect way to bid adieu to summer.
We kicked the weekend off early on Friday starting with what has become our monthly tradition—a tour of the galleries open for First Friday. The girls really love to see the art and we enjoy seeing how First Fridays have evolved into such a big event. Sophia and I spent a bit of time at the Clay Studio at their STEAM (Science Technology Engineering ART & Math) exhibit. There, Sophia and I tried our hand at making a clay boat that floats which involves a bit of engineering know-how. While we engineered to displace enough water with our clay vessel, Evan and Eliza were buying art. As a side-note, Eliza exclaims “Wow!” every time she likes a piece of art. Maybe she’ll be a collector.
Saturday the kids visited my parents for the day while Evan and I had some time to ourselves. There was of course a bit of cooking, baking, cleaning, and laundry. But there also was a morning stroll in the Italian Market which started with coffee and culminated with a trip to DiBruno Brothers for charcuterie. We also went to the ever-popular Fishtown neighborhood and checked out (new to us) Frankford Hall. While we enjoyed visiting Philadelphia’s most well-known neighborhoods, the kids had a picnic and visited a farm in Wilmington with Baba and Deda.
Sunday was spent visiting Grammie and Pop and going to a family birthday party for my two little cousins. We had such a good time at the birthday party where, for the first time, all the kids played together and without much adult supervision. They enjoyed exploring the ample play spaces my cousin has set up at her house and the beautiful back yard.
As I look back on the picture of all the cousins (ranging in age from 11 to 1) lined up for a yearly photo, I cannot help but realize that they will grow up playing and create memories together. This closeness our kids have learned from us and our parents, and this they will perpetuate to their own children. This closeness isn’t innate, it is bred and taught by example.
I am not sure how it even happened. This past Saturday was the first time Evan and I had a chance to be at home and have the whole (1300 sq. ft.) place to ourselves. Realistically, with the exception of our two trips and two weddings in the last four years, no one other than us has ever put our kids to bed. Even when we [seldom] do go out on date night, we manage to get home in time for bath and bedtime. While that is our preference, it doesn’t mean that we, like most adults, don’t crave a bit of freedom to go out and feel carefree. In any event, it finally happened when my parents invited the kids out for a whole day of Baba and Deda fun. There was play-doh, as ordered by Sophia well in advance, time with Alex (a surprise to the girls), Rita’s Water Ice, and playground fun. Evan and I dropped the kids off right after breakfast and picked them up after stopping by a wonderful house party my longtime friend was having.
Sophia and Eliza had an amazing time. They felt and looked refreshed, exhilarated and thoroughly loved on. We too were happy to have had more than two hours to ourselves in the city we love. An XLB-filled lunch left us sated and fortified for a few hours at a local beer garden where we enjoyed the glorious weather, a few board games, and the beautiful surroundings. And while I’d like to give you the impression that we wined and dined the entire day, we did not. Before going out to lunch, we made enough [frozen] breakfast burritos to last us a month, baked a pie, made amazing chicken cutlets, and even better salmon avocado summer rolls. There may have been ricotta pancakes topped with raspberries, too. I can neither confirm or deny that. Judge for yourselves.
A good great weekend to round out the summer and hopefully, usher in a new era where the kids feel more secure about visiting and staying with grandparents.
Even during college, when I was all grown up and could take care of myself, my parents doted on me by serving up my favorite dishes. That hospitality was naturally extended to Evan when he would join our family on the weekends. The hospitality hasn’t abated. In fact, my Mom and Dad have taken great care to nurture us and the kids with the most amazing treats week in and week out. Having arrived home from our recent trip we were welcomed by the not-too-unexpected sight of a fully stocked fridge.
Such incredible generosity (and I don’t mean in terms of the cost of ingredients) has inspired me to want to give back, to somehow show that we are grateful. Inspiration hit me this Sunday to make a pie crust. Between trying to savor my latest read and waiting for new yarn for a knitting project, I had a few minutes to myself. Why a pie crust? I make it from scratch with my hands and working butter into flour is tough on your joins. My mom suffers from arthritis, has mentioned several times how much she loves my home-made pie crust, and my dad loves anything dessert. Pie is really a synch to make once you have the crust and the late-harvest peaches make the perfect filling. I wanted to, in my own way, show my gratitude for being so lucky to be doted on.
Exactly twenty one years ago today, on a dreary rainy evening, my family immigrated to the United States. The date is forever ingrained in my memory. I look back remembering what it was like then, what it is like now, and everything in between. It was then, and will forever be, the single most challenging experience for my parents, sister, and me. But as they say, no pain, no gain. The decision to emigrate, and a tiny bit of hard work, have also been incredibly rewarding.
Evan sent me this link that showcases what life was like in the Soviet Union in the mid-late 1980ies. As I watched the footage, listened to the people, I could understand the language but not relate or recall that that is what life was really like. Perhaps that, the fact that I don’t remember the every day life, is what has helped shaped me into the person that I am. That old life doesn’t hold me back and yet, everything that is positive about having come from another country (bilingualism, wanderlust) propels me forward. So thank you to all those who have been supportive and who have wished me and my family well.
Going back to my [salad] roots after a gentle reminder from those Danes whose food we loved so much. What we have here is a German-style potato salad made with red bliss potatoes, a cup of parsley, dill, and mint all dressed with a red wine vinaigrette. Complimenting the potato salad is a lightly sautéed corn and tomato salad topped with chunks of avocado and a light lime-honey vinaigrette.
Copenhagen is strikingly beautiful. It is old and also new, eclectic, exciting, crowded, invigorating and yet, despite all that, down to earth and inviting. The first thing you see as you approach the city are the beautiful green roofs of the many churches and palaces. The roofs are made of copper and zinc that has, over centuries, acquired a beautiful patina and has given the city a unique look.
We thoroughly enjoyed our five days in Copenhagen soaking in not just the history but also the modern culture. If we rushed, we could have “seen” the city in two or three days, but would have had to forego the cafe culture, the beautiful antique shops, and the boutiques that carry the latest in Danish modern design. We felt that we would not have done Copenhagen justice if we focused on just the past, on its rich and illustrious history. And so we spent several more days, ambling slowly through the streets both in the city center and a bit further out. Because we wanted to. Because we could.
Perhaps amble isn’t quite the word I should be using. We went fast, super fast, in a hot ride. See below. So hot and so new, no helmets or seat harnesses provided or required. The ride—the cadillac of tricycles is called a Christiania bike and is designed for families or cargo. And while the majority of the time you see sporty Danes wheeling their kids to and fro, you occasionally saw adults in the cargo hold and … me. Starting our stay in Copenhagen off on the right foot, we ventured to Amalienborg Palace which is the official residence of the Crown Prince and Princess. The palace has recently undergone a spectacular renovation that is the epitome of modern Danish design blended into a traditional setting. There is also a beautiful changing of the guard ceremony at noon, for those so inclined.
Having gotten a taste of Danish grandeur, we moved onto Frederiskberg Castle, its surrounding park grounds and the neighboring cisterns. We lucked out because there was a huge music festival that was happening in the park grounds. Since it was open to the public, we strolled through the park enjoying beautiful music and taking in the Danes in their natural environment. The cisterns, a modern glass art museum, were having a special exhibition that was awe-inspiring. The exhibition was a water and sound installation that, given the cavernous environs, made for an incredible audio-visual experience.
If you know me, you know that I will not (at least willingly) forgo a jewelry exhibit and crown jewels were not an exception. The Rosenborg castle houses the crown jewels and was an absolute must. We also saw how the Danish monarchs lived a few hundred years ago; The rooms were a little small and a little spartan. The chapel on the other hand, as you can see, was not spared any expense.
The castle’s gardens are open to the public and make for an excellent place to picnic or enjoy the warm embrace of the afternoon sun’s rays.
Out with the old and in with the new. Having done our due diligence for all things royal, we moved on to places like Freetown Christiania. Pictures are not permitted so you’ll have to trust me when I say that I was not impressed. I respect and support people’s right to live as they choose, but I am not sure I support the dilapidated, anarchist nature of Christiania. It was quite an experience, and one I am glad to have had because it made me realize I am more conservative than I would have admitted to beforehand.
Besides Christiania, we also visited the Glyptotek and the National Museum. The Gylptotek houses an amazing collection of sculpture. Works by Degas, Rodin and many others reminded us the immense talent that these masters must possess in order to capture an instant of the human condition for eons to come. And because any decent museum should, the Glyptotek has a great cafe located in the midst of its green house which serves wonderful coffee, pastries, and libations. Those in the know reserve a table for lunch, and visit the roof terrace, after finishing the exhibition, for 360 degree views of the city. Those who wish to be in the know, should know that the museum is free on Tuesdays and ~$20 otherwise. The National Museum is also worth a visit. I especially enjoyed the impressionist masters exhibit and the peculiar burial stones complete with translated inscriptions from the iron age. Fascinating and low risk since admission is free.
Let’s see… you’re probably hungry just from the exertion of reading this post and wondering if we did anything other than sightsee during our time in Copenhagen. As I mentioned copious times before, sightseeing isn’t just about visiting museums, it is also about eating the local cuisine and partaking in the local cafe culture.
For a trendy experience in a unique atmosphere try Manfred and Vins. Funky, delicious, out of the way, far away from the tourist traps, and serving spectacular wines. Stroll the Jægersborggade, the street on which Manfred and Vins is located and visit local artisans and their boutiques. Clou is a decidedly more upscale establishment that excels in serving Nordic cuisine with a French flare and impeccable service. Amass offers not only spectacular city views but amazing cuisine from an American chef who worked at Noma. We biked to and from Amass, by the way… it was a 40 minute bike ride each way and it was entirely worth it. Copenhagen has a very lively meatpacking district with great restaurants such Kul, Kodbyens Fiskabar, and Gorilla. For a taste of old-school glamour and cocktails done just right, visit Ruby which is situated along a canal in bespoke glamour. For a great cup of coffee and an even better croissant, go to Democratic Coffee situated near the university and across the street from an old synagogue. A visit to Denmark without a trip to an excellent smorrebrod establishment would be a major oversight and I cannot recommend Restaurant Schonnemann enough. When thirsty, do try Mikkeller or War Pigs for a fine hand-crafted brew. Last, and not least, I am here to remind you that vacations are about indulgence which, to me, means dessert. Flodeballer is a danish dessert which consists of a swiss meringue ensconced in a chocolate shell. There are variations which include a bit of sponge cake and a fruit or nut topping and they’re all very, very delicious. I cannot tell you which shoppe made the best, but do highly recommend you try a flodeballer everywhere you see one.
And just like that our trip to Copenhagen and this travelogue have come to an end. Until next time, hopefully soon, hopefully somewhere exciting, and hopefully with Eliza and Sophia who can begin to learn about the vast and wondrous world out there.
